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Hoping for a simple answer. I've recently received Descent 2e and all expansions and some lieutenants. Life, as they say, is good!
However, regarding the lieutenants. I have an Ariad and a Queen Ariad. One is a humanoid, the other a big spider thing. Are these two versions of the same character? Are they both from the same expansion?
by BoncuFirst some questions:
1. Can a hero use a heal spell without having anything to heal just because that heal is a prerequisite for another buff. Ex. Disciple has a combo that if he heals a hero he gives him a yellow die for his next attack. Can he do that if that hero has full hp? (we played as yes, he can)
2. Cards that don't have that "as an action" symbol and don't say exhaust can be played multiple time during a round as long as you have fatigue to pay for them?
3. Can you move diagonally on the edge of a corner? I mean if u come from a corridor (2 lanes) and u want to enter a room so the path expands in 4 lanes and there is a monster at the entrance the occupies 2 spaces, can u go around it? (i dunno how to explain better )
4. Black arrow does 3 dmg always unless u roll a X? Even if all the dmg from the dice was blocked. Can it be used for 2 attacks in a row? (paying 2 fatigue)
5. I want to buy the lieutenant packs but i've already played thru the first act and the interlude and i dunno if I will ever have the chance to play them unless we start a new campaign. Do they appear in act 2 also? (I mean those from act 1). What does a lieutenant pack contain besides the figurine.
6. I play against a necromancer and the summon is killing me (is the best hero of the party ). The question is: if i manage to imobilize it can the necromancer destroy it and summon again free to move?
Now the Shadow Vault thing:
I play as OL vs a Disciple, a Necromancer and a Ranger (Wild smth dopn't remember the name now)> My problem is that the Disciple (who holds the key) is unkillable. He has defense of 2 white dice, heal, tons of damage and stun. And he can get heal and recover fatigue from the necro who has the Staff of Light. I mean is useless to fight, i killed the ranger 3 times but is pointless, the hero team does not lose anything, he just wakes up (cuz they have actions to spare to ressurect him). After 2 hours of doing nothing (no progres) i just gave up. They were advancing really slow and healing recovering all the time. I know they should have the advantage cuz they won 2 of the first act quest but it was too much (after Castle Daerion), i just felt useless again and conceded Question is do u find this quest frustrating also, as OL? Same with Castle Daerion.
by VanderveckenHi folks,
So Looking at the Disciple, it seems like a seriously overpowered class, and looking at it the reason is obvious. As they level, their Prayer gets better and better, for free, without even spending an action.
here's a simple idea to bring them back down to size:
Make each of their Prayer of Healing buffs cost an extra 1 stamina.
If the Disciple wants to add Armor of Faith, Cleansing Touch, Divine Fury, or Holy Power, they have to pay 1 Stamina for each effect they want to tag on. Maybe Cleansing Touch and/or Holy Power should even cost 2 Stamina.
by keljnrWe are currently operating on foldaway table due to size of accommodation. How much recommended space would you require for the game?
Our current table is: 24 inches x 35.5 inches (61 cm x 90cm). Is this big enough? We have a small side table to fit extra bits on if need be.
by super_brunoYears ago, I got my hands on Arkham Horror, I tried, and tried to love it, but just couldn't.
Then I got to play Mansions if Madness. Ah, now that will work for me I thought, but just didn't like it.
Then I got Descent instead, and thought finally, that should be the adventure game I was looking for.
Alas, it was not to be. Too many rules and details kept getting in the way of my enjoyment.
For those three games, someone has to be the "gamemaster", managing the game and remembering the rules, while the other players get to play the game. But I found that it didn't work for me. Too much time spent on trying to quickly remember the rules, keep the game moving, and pointing out what the players were doing wrong. Too little tome actually playing the game.
And the length of these games is also a bit too much for the group.
Well, at least I enjoy Elder Sign a lot. Much less things going on to remember.
Those thematic games call to me, they are so appealing. But they come with a lot of chrome, which increase the complexity and the number of small details you have to remember.
Maybe one day...
I'd like to start collecting Descent 2nd edition game and expansions, buying them slowly.
A part from the base game, which expansions, packs, ... it's better to buy first?
Is it possible to find the order in which they have been published?
If I understood well, FFG will make a reprint but it's just a reprint or there will be changes (so it's better to wait forvthe reprintor not?)
by mrsuitcaseI've got a while before this hits the table with my group. I'm wondering if the Forgotten Souls and Nature's Ire modules provide a good solo experience, with 2 purposes.
One is for me to enjoy it. Second is to get more comfortable/familiar with the rules before this hits play with my group.
And I've read about replayability issues with these scenarios. If I play through them, will it spoil them later when I play them with my group?
Backgrounder: My group plays every 2 weeks and we've got a boatload of new games to go through.
Supplemental Question for group play: If my group plays Descent very occassionally (like once every 2-3 months), I'm thinking the campaign doesn't make sense. So which base game stand-alone scenarios do you recommend, and do you recommend adding skill points for them? I'm just looking for the fun here. My group are RPG, MTG, and boardgame veterans.
by IncrediSteveOver the months the FFG preview articles usually tell you everything about a Hero and Monster collection's contents, except for Act I monster stats [and quest details of course]. Well it turns out there's one more bit of information they hide: Base Size. Up until now, all the base sizes have remained unchanged between editions. When I opened my copy of Guardians of Deephall today, I discovered that Wendigos are now on large bases.
That's a pretty big buff for what was already one of the best Monster Groups. You've now got an increased threat radius, and the master's Freezing ability is more likely to be relevant.
Crypt Dragons are okay; it is unlikely their blast will be relevant outside of Illusionists or an odd party with multiple abilities that trigger on adjacency. Usually Shadow Dragons will be better, but they're a nice option for when you're tired of using Shadow Dragons all the time. Although in quests featuring the Cursed trait you could of course use them both for double dragon action.
Dark Priests are interesting. If the heroes want them dead, they can't really say no, and it's a red letter day if they kill anything. But the revised Dark Prayer gives them some interesting utility. It doesn't require Line of Sight, so the Dark Priests can hide behind tougher monsters, or a locked door, or a wall if the stars truly align [given the loose LOS rules in D2E]. These are a definite group to take if the hero party is low on willpower.
Descent 2.0 Core and I wanted to replace all of the few remaining tokens that it uses. Like leader models?
Is there a lit of what extra models go with what set? I would like to upgrade a few but I only need ones that run with the base set.
by BoofusI will be getting one of these two for solo play only. Which one would you recommend?
The plan is to use the variants posted here on BGG (Nerdook, RedJak).
I should also note that I am equally drawn to the theme of both games, so thematic incentives don't apply.
by demondude777Hey everyone,
Also, will Visions of Dawn complete all the Descent monsters for 2nd edition? Or are there still more monsters missing?
I've had Descent 2.0 and Lair of the Wyrm since release, but never played due to a move and lack of players that would take the overlord role. I play mostly with my wife and daughter now,so it is always better when we can all cooperate with these types of games.
by HarryCanyonDoes anyone else have a red crypt dragon with the right wing facing almost straight up? It doesn't match the white crypt dragon's wings and I'm wondering if this is intentional. Usually the monsters look the same whether or not they are red or white. Is it supposed to be this way?
by IgnipesHow many Dark Resilience cards is there in the game?
I have 1 and it's seems strange to me.
Also, I know it's not a solo game, but I mostly play alone. I'm happy to take both sides, but is there any sort of solo variant that works?
1. What size should I go with 20mm or 25mm base?
2. Should I stay round or go with square?
Recently heard of this, and I heard it has solo play (important to me), but everywhere i look its either really expensive ($200 on amazon?!) or sold out.
by dmuertoHow much info on a campaign mission is known by:
1) the overlord
2) the heroes
about overlord reinforcements, about evolving mission goals, about everything?
3) and what is the sequence in a campaign mission? For example Food For Worms mission from Trollfens: If there are no monsters remaining on the map, the heroes win. Why should they even try to save the drowning civilians since the campaign book doesn't state that they need to? They win if monsters are dead. I am super-confused, oh silly me.
by SoldierFFG has amazing customer service! I have had 4 broken minis over the years and both have been replaced for free very quickly. The astounding thing is that I am in the UK and so this cant be very cheap for the company. I have no problem paying a bit more for their amazing games knowing that their support is so wonderful. They are sending me a new Giant right now!
by SwedishGeekTwo months ago I got fired from my job (no worries, today I'm back in the saddle) and I needed something to do during the days. So I decided to go ahead and paint my minis. I figured that with 40 figures, I would be kept occupied for some time while looking for a new job.
I haven't painted a mini for around 30 years, last attempt was a tin soldier in the beginning of the 80's. So I have started from scratch and learnt by my mistakes, and most especially my brother who has had to answer around a gazillion questions on the topic.
I have used GW paints exclusively as one of my local game stores carries them. There's no other brands to be found around here, excempt Humbrol enamels, which would probably not be very good. I have a paints list at the bottom of this post, and also a list of some of the things I have picked up.
Anyways, here goes. Heroes first, although I did them last in order to pick up the skills needed.
Grisban The Thirsty
Leoric of the Book
Minions for the Widow
The chest and treasure on the Shadow Dragons, and the three minion skeletons are from Otherworld Miniatures in the UK. Nice models and I think it gives a little more life to the figures.
So, what have I picked up..
- When painting several minis of the same type, glue them up on some foam core or similar. Then work as a factory with the bases and shades, using the same paint on all figures before switching. For the final touches you might need to go individual however.
- The bases are all done with the "standard" from Esoteric Order of gamers. But instead of using kitty litter, it's actual crossed stone. I glued it down with PVA glue, gave it a black coat, then a grey, and finally a white drybrush. The grass is Scorched grass from Citadel/GW.
- When mixing paints from Citadel/GW, it's better to mix bases with bases and layers with layers. Mixing a base with a layer is really tricky as the base will just "eat up" the layer paint.
- Use quality brushes. I've used GW's own, Army painter and some I found in a real art store. Remember to keep them clean and wash in water often. Especially when dry brushing, the paint tends to stay in the brush.
- Learn wet blending. It's quite simple actually. Get two or three paints on your palette, mix some in-between colors, then paint with the first colour from where it should starts, then just move to the next, and work up and down to mix the paints on the model itself. I didn't really get a hang of it until the end, but I should have tried earlier.
- If you use the Citadel/GW paints, use their way of painting. It's much easier than going advanced and mixing paints. Start with the base paints, then go to the shades, back to the bases and fix everything you just messed up, then start with the layer paints to get the highlights.
- After painting, cover the figure in 'Ardcoat. It will give it an insane gloss, but it's for protecting the mini. Once dryed, spray it with a flat varnish. I mainly used Testors Dullcoat since it seems to be the best.
- To fill in small cracks etc I used something called Perfect Plastic Putty from Deluxe materials. It's easy to apply, you use water to get rid of the excess and it's easy to sand or file down.
Finally, here's the long list of paints. I think I've spent more on paint than on the game itself. But hey, geeks do what geeks must.
Mechanics Standard Grey (the one I use for the bases)
Evil Sunz Scarlet
Bloood for the Blood God
Auric Armor Gold
Temple Guard Blue
Flash Gitz Yellow
There's proably more to this, but if anyone has a question just ask. I was a beginner 8 weeks ago, today I'm on the interwebz looking for more advanced paints and painting techniques.
by Muad DibHi everybody,
since I saw many people struggling to paint their first miniatures I decided to do a small painting introduction on the example of Descent 2.
Please keep in mind, that I am not a professional painter and there are many people who paint better than me. I started painting only two years ago , but I believe that much nice stuff can be done with the following tutorial.
•At least 2 brushes, one with a flat head (~3-5mm wide), one with the finest point you can get for details, additionally a medium one might be useful
•a spray for the foundation, e.g. Chaos Black from Games Workshop or Matt Black Undercoat from Army Painter
•several shades of colors, for each color tone you want to use at least 3 tones which differ clearly in brightness from each other
For base decoration:
•sand/rock/stone you want to use for decoration
•additionally, a color which resembles the material you want to use (e.g. light brown for light brown sand)
Choosing the colors:
In the following example I used some colors from Games Workshop (Citadel) and some colors from Vallejo. If you only can get one of those brands, do not worry. The exact colors mentioned here should not matter that much anyhow. The most important thing is, that you choose a shade and then 3 different levels of this shade. For example for red you can first pick a very dark red for a foundation, then a lighter red for the first drybrush layer and after that a bright orange for the last layer, as I did for the red spider below.
Step 1: cleaning the figure and spray it
First, you want to clean the figure from obvious errors in the modelling. Many figures are produced in molds, and they have characteristic "molding lines". These are lines on the figure which clearly stand out.
Sadly, I forgot to make a photo of the figures before cleaning. But basically what you do is the following:
Gently use the cutter knife to remove the molding lines, because the material is quite bad of the Descent figures this is quite hard here (the plastic is too flexible). Try to scratch with the side of the blade over the molding lines to make them disappear. Additionally, you can try to cut them away gently.
Remember: Don't use force, you will not get the figure cleaned a hundred percent. Try not to cut of parts from the figure you want to keep ;-)
Additionally to the typical molding lines, many of the Descent figures have excessive plastic between fingers etc.. Also try to remove this.
After cleaning the figures, apply the base coat. This is actually not that hard. There is a video explaining the whole process here:
Key things to keep in mind: try to be not to close and not to far away from the miniatures, e.g. 15 - 25 cm is a good measurement. Do this outside or in a room with constant fresh air supply.
You should use something to put the figures on, I personally use old lids of cardboard. Turn the figures around / lie them differently on the ground to really cach all places.
Afterwards: Let them dry for an hour.
Here is a picture in quite bad quality of the base coated spiders with the legs already painted brown:
Step 2: first color layer
Now comes the first layer of color, here I will paint from dark to light because it is easier. You want to drybrush the lighter colors on the raised regions, with the darker colors beneath.
Take the medium sized brush and apply the darkest colors you chose. Do not put to much color on the figure, but only enough to cover the black base color and not overpaint any details of the figure at the same time.
Here is an example of my spiders after the first step:
Here I used the following colors:
Red Spider Butt - Mechrite Red (Citadel)
Green Spider Butt - Dark Angels Green (Citadel)
Legs - Chocolate Brown (Vallejo Model Color)
Step 3: first drybrush layer
So here comes the first drybrush layer. How to drybrush?
Drybrushing is a technique commonly used to give the models depth. You drybrush with a certain color by applying the color to your brush. Then take a tissue and gently stroke the brush on the tissue on different places. Do this until you leave a little bit color behind. In this way only the color particels remain on the brush and can be applied now.
When you prepared the brush in this way, paint the figure with fast strokes over the places you want to drybrush, here the spider butt and leg with their according colors.
In the resulting figure the raised parts of your figure (e.g. here the hairs on the spider butt) should be highlighted, whereas the deeper parts of the figure should be left with mostly the old (darker) color layer.
Here is an example of my first drybrush step:
Red Spider Butt - Vermillion (Vallejo Model Color)
Green Spider Butt - Warpstone Glow (Citadel)
Legs - Flat Earth (Vallejo Model Color)
Step 4: second drybrush layer
Now comes the finish, for the last drybrush layer, try to use even less color to brush than before to make the highlights pointed. Here I use a nearly orange color for the red spider butt, and a nearly neon green color for the green butts, additionally the legs got a quite light brown.
Red Spider Butt - Bright Orange(Vallejo Model Color)
Green Spider Butt - Scorpion Green (Citadel)
Legs - Desert Yellow (Vallejo Model Color)
Step 5: adding details
After that, I added eyes, horns and feeler of the spider. The horns were again painted with a little bit wetter drybrush technique. The painter were only overdrawn with Chocolate Brown of Vallejo. The eyes are the most difficult part, here you need the very fine brush mentioned at the beginning. Make sure to not apply too much paint on the point of the brush and paint the eyes with a steady hand.
Horns - Bleached Bown (Citadel)
Eyes - Vermillion (Vallejo Model Color)
Feeler - Chocolate Brown (Vallejo Model Color)
Step 6: painting the base
To assure that the black base does not shine through after the sand is applied, it is now painted. Also, this step can be applied when you do not want to add further detail to the base to imitate a muddy ground.
Base - Flat Earth (Vallejo Model Color)
Step 7: glue the base
Now, apply a small point of wood glue on a free space of the base and spread it over the base with the brush. Take care to not accidentally apply glue to your figure. If you do so anyhow, remove it with a dry tissue.
Step 8: apply sand to the base
Put your sand, small rocks or whatever you want to apply to your base in container and "pull" the figure through it untilall glue is covered. If you want to apply bigger parts to the base (like small rock parts or mini bushes like the ones offerd by Army Painter) you should apply those by hand beforehand.
When the glue is dried, your model is finished. If you want to protect the color from wearing off you can additionally put a clear coat on it.
There is much more cool stuff you can do, like adding grass and bushes to your base and even more detail (for example with the things from Army Painter).
Here is one inspiration how the finished models could look like:
also stated some good resources in his article there.
Check it out!
I hope, this step-by-step tutorial actually helped some of you. If there is enough demand I might add the step-by-step pictures of the other miniatures from the base game as well. If you have any questions or suggestions, do not hesitate to ask!
Feedback is also always welcome.
P.S.: Please forgive my typos etc., I am not a native English speaker.
by WallackHi lads.
Have anyone of you changed the bases? I'm doing that slowly to change them into 25mm square bases (50mm for ettins).
I just wanted to see some pictures if any of you have some. And also any tip would be appreciated.
Im thinking about getting into descent, just finished IA and i want more.
I want to go big right from the start, so im hope that you guys/girls can help me with some recommendations.
Im gonna get the Base game, but i also want:
1 Big box expansion
1 Small box expansion
Can you reccomend me which ones to get and why?
ANything else i should consider to buy from the start?
by Brockoly3Does anyone have any suggestions for remembering heroes passive abilities, especially the ones that affect figures within 3 spaces? We constantly forget to take these abilities into account.
our group is currently playing the Labyrinth of Ruin campaign; so far we have played the intro, a rumor quest and two act1 quests. The overlord won the intro, but after that we demolished him in all the other quests - none of them were even close. We haven't drawn into the really good weapons like crossbow or bearded axe so far, but the stuff we have works just fine.
Our first campaign (shadowrune) looked similar at first, heroes steamrolled everything until the interlude, lost that and then just got smashed by the act 2 monsters.
For those who already played LoR, is the same thing possible? If act 2 goes the same way act 1 went, I doubt the OL is gonna get much joy out of it, but making bad plays on purpose is not an option for either side...
(The OL is slightly more experienced in the game than the heroes)
edit: The hero group is definitely stronger this time, since we actually looked at the heroes' abilities instead of picking the ones that looked cool
by WallackHi lads.
Is there a way to buy descent plot cards? just the cards. I don't buy lieutenant packs for the base game because I don't really like the minis and already have proxy for all of them. I will buy Valyndra though she is gorgeous.
Is there any list of the cards for a print & play version ? Or is there at least a template and a list of the cards so I "make" them myself?
I don't have a problem on buying the cards but I don't want to pay the extra cost of a miniature I don't like
by aikidobroI was just wondering how the mini's compare in size i would love to use the Conan mini's in descent and vice versa. thank you for any help you can give its not long until the Conan kick starter is over, i am trying to make up my mind if i want to buy or not.
I don't seem to be able to find minis for these monster cards, they are from the Conversion Kit, Alter of Despair section:
The other 3 monsters from this are available, spread out over box sets (of course)
Does anyone know the radius for the mini cards? I checked mine and I think is 2mm but I'm not sure. I'm looking to buy a corner cutter and want to look for the exact size as I plan to then print some custom cards and cut them as perfect as possible.
by Hatchet JackLast time we played we were wondering why the hero abilities and feats had titles. It would be more the thematic and interesting.
What would you name the abilities and feats of the heroes?
by badmike01I've seen the other games available from FFG based around Terrinoth (Runebound universe?) I was wondering if there is any compatibility between any of them? Like a few bonus heroes or monsters that can travel between games for example?
I don't have many questions, but the ones I do, I can't seem to grasp no matter what. I don't know what it is, but maybe I need someone to explain it to me like I'm five.
This is the question: How do you properly play and incorporate plot cards?
***I feel as I should let you know that we are playing loser picks the next quest. I proposed this because I don't really care which map we play as I would like to experience them all. The Heroes, however, are all about choosing something easier for them.
I cannot, for the life of me, figure out how to properly play and use plot cards. I tried to hold on to them and play them all before the third quest, but I think that's wrong. It doesn't help that since I own the game, my friends aren't interested in helping me figure this out and would rather just skip it. Granted, this is our first campaign to make it this far, as we came to the agreement that because they didn't have much synergy between their classes that we would just restart (but I still hear "the OL is too OP" at least twice per encounter).
My second question is: what are the rules on discussing tactics? Are they supposed to do it openly?
***Last quest, two of the Heroes were texting back and forth so as not to openly discuss their strategy.
While I don't care, personally, it alienated the other two Heroes. They weren't kept in the loop, and ultimately, what they were planning on doing failed in the end (I think due to a rule they overlooked).
I have proposed maybe 5-10 minutes of private discussion before we begin an encounter where I, as Overlord, will leave the room. What do you guys think of this? Is it needed; excessive?
I can provide more details and whatnot if you need.
by PeterParkourI'm sure there is another post asking this question, but could not find it doing a quick search. What is the ideal number of heroes to run when playing a two player campaign?
I'm really thinking on buying Descent: Journeys in the Dark but I need to know something before I pull the trigger, after all, with the exchange rate, games are kinda expensive right now here in Brazil (I will pay something like 100 bucks for the base set).
Is that true what people say about the swingy nature of the game? I don't want that one side or the other gets bored. I can buy an expansion if I like the game, but not just now. So the base game can hold its own? I really don't like unbalanced things, I get easily bored with stuff like that.
Are there good variants or good community generated scenarios to keep the game being played after the campaign is over?
Thanks everyone for the help!
by CaerusI have the conversion kit, but none of the heroes and monsters packs yet. So when I use any of the figure from the conversion kit I have to go and check the recent changes. Is anyone aware of a concise list of these changes?
Also has anyone found a fair change to nanok?
Long time ago I remember watching a picture of a guy playing descent with some additional terrain like trees and some sort of stuff just to give it more life, nothing big.
I for example have ordered a few candelabras to put outside the tiles when playing on dungeon, a few 3d resin doors, some chest to be used as search tokens (and to put over the search token when this has a ? mark) a trap door ... some stuff to give it more flavour to the game.
I don't want to change the tiles because honestly, I think they are great, but just wanted to see if someone know what image I was talking about or someone has some examples on what else to add.
I was planing on some trees and even some hills to surround the scenarios or to add more flavour to the game.
What do you guys think?
by xrisA new Descent FAQ has been released by FFG.
Errata and FAQ Version 1.5
I thought they usually announced FAQs along with other news items but I don't think they did this time. Maybe it's because of the site make-over.
by Amunra93As a kid (about 10 years ago) I stumbled on a copy of Heroquest for about $5 in a thrift store.
I bought the game, it had all the components present, it was a miracle (considering the game was already like 13 years old then). I fell in love with it, although my parents eventually gave it away when we moved overseas.)
I have been interested in Descent 2nd Edition for a while but some of the negative reviews have me speculating if I will it enjoy it or not.
The biggest fault I have heard lobbied with the game is that the optimal playstyle just makes the game a race and some of the missions heavily favor one side over the other.
For one, Hero Quest has a loot system, more of a focus on closed doors/treasures/drops "exploration", traps, and death.
I look forward to any and all responses.
by soxshisouHEY GUYS!
Seems like the more and more I look into Descent, the more and more I REALLY want to play. ...and the more and more rules we find that we've overlooked, haha!
Anyways, I wanted your guys opinions on whether or not I should bother getting a mini for the wolf and skeleton/reanimate. I'm not sure EXACTLY where to look, outside of Ebay or something, but... Maybe even a mini for the Raven? I don't know.
I guess I think the classes would seem more attractive if you have a rockin' skeleton or a wicked slick wolf running around with you.
I'm gonna' do some more research, but if there's something you've used/are using, feel free to lemme know! Thanks in advance!
by mrakomorFor example news page looks that way:
What do you think about it?
by oddbodHaving a number of expansions, we've got plenty of all the dice except that darn single blue one.
I don't really want to pay $10 for a whole new set of dice that I don't need. Can I get just a second blue die somewhere for less than that? I am a selfish overlord and I want my own.