Hello brave Heroes and vile Overlords.
In this thread I'll try to share with you what comes out when i spend time on my Descent 2ed stuff. The purpose of it is to show off a little with my craftiness as well as share few ideas or solutions that some of you may hopefully find useful or helpful in your gameplay.
1. THE ULTIMATE MAP TILES STORAGE TUTORIAL.
First off, let me tell you about the way I store Descent 2ed. I own most of the stuff that came out up to date (sans Mists of Bilehall, because it's not out yet in polish, two h&m collections and two lieutenants) and that being said, I can forget about packing it all into one or two game boxes in any sensible way. Knowing that and the fact that I'm cheap and like diy, I accepted that my storage won't be anything pretty. So I decided to make it all about accesibility.
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1.
This is what all the stuff looks like. Splig added for scale.
2.
The wooden box contains all cards. Heroes lay on top. They are all sleeved. I bought some great quality postcard sleeves in China. They are 106x105 mm, need a cut on the shorter side and then fit perfectly. They cost $1.30/25 pcs HERE, shipping was free to Poland.
3.
Below hero sheets are all the hero/overlord cards, all labeled and separated. Also cards for co-op expansions and familiar tokens, which are successively replaced by minis. I'll show them some day.
4.
Sturdy black file for all the booklets.
5. & 6.
The ring binder contains all the map tiles. Later in this post I'll show how to make pages.
7.
Black boxes are for monsters (bigger ones; cardboard diy for life)
8.
Plastic boxes contain monsters (more cardboard madness)
9.
...and other game components. Note, that the plastic inserts are removable, so we can keep them on the table to easy access tokens, doors, map end caps etc.
While playing we give a binder with map tiles to one player, put boxes with monsters on the floor next to another player (monsters are of course grouped in the boxes), overlord (if there is one) manages the cards and the last player (if there is one) manages tokens, doors, end caps and connectors. It worked great so far, especially with RtL, when you don't finish the setup just once but have to be able to access and add game material almost everytime.
Now to the map tiles storage.
The purpose is to make a map tiles storage that is as accessible as possible. Making it a binder with tiles held in numbered sleeves put in order made the setup time for our games a fraction of what it was when everything was held in the box or bags. Also I took an effort to make it as compact as possible, so I tried to fit as many tiles as possible on as little sheets as possible.
![]()
1.
You will need:
- soldering tool
- sharp knife
- metal ruler
- standard document binder sleeves
- few paper sheets
- thin permanent marker
- a surface that you can work on using sharp and very hot tools.
- clear adhesive tape (optional)
2.
Insert 2 or 3 paper sheets into the sleeve and put the map tiles you wish to fit into the sleeve on top of it. Make sure that every tile has at least 5-6 milimeters of space from every side. Put a mark between the tiles (every tile should have about 10 mm of safe space from it). This is where we will use the soldering tool to make a socket.
3.
Take away the tiles. Measure the same space from the top of the sleeve and make another mark. Put a metal ruler about 5-7 milimeters below the marks. This is where you cut the opening for the lower socket.
Cut using exacto knife or any other sharp tool. Use little force, so you cut only through one layer of plastic.
4.
Remove the paper from the sleeve. Move the ruler on your marks.
This is where somehow tricky part starts, but the good side is, that even when you screw something, you won't waste any materials unless you do some random stuff.
Following the ruler set on the marks you've made, weld both layers of the sleeve. Don't go from edge to edge of the sleeve, because you may cut the sleeve in half (the line between the marks I made works good). Don't push too hard. Do it at a steady pace. If you'll go too fast, you probably won't weld the foils. If you'll go too slow, you may burn through them. If this happens, just reinforce the back of the sleeve with clear adhesive tape.
5.
The effect should look like this. All you have to do is put big numbers on it.
6.
You can put more tiles in every sleeve. Just remember to leave the margins from the vertical lines as well so each of the tiles will fit and don't go with the soldering tool up to the edges.
IMPORTANT NOTE.
This method can be used to make custom sleeves for almost any non-standard game material you may have. All you need to do is use crystal clear binder sleeves, make very precise measurments (using erasable marker, so your sleeved cards or whatever won't be marked) and use soldering tool the way that you will actually burn through both foil layers (better to do it in few passes than in one held too long).
That's it for today, hope you find it useful.
Next time I'll try to focus on proxies for familiars, or who knows what.
In this thread I'll try to share with you what comes out when i spend time on my Descent 2ed stuff. The purpose of it is to show off a little with my craftiness as well as share few ideas or solutions that some of you may hopefully find useful or helpful in your gameplay.
1. THE ULTIMATE MAP TILES STORAGE TUTORIAL.
First off, let me tell you about the way I store Descent 2ed. I own most of the stuff that came out up to date (sans Mists of Bilehall, because it's not out yet in polish, two h&m collections and two lieutenants) and that being said, I can forget about packing it all into one or two game boxes in any sensible way. Knowing that and the fact that I'm cheap and like diy, I accepted that my storage won't be anything pretty. So I decided to make it all about accesibility.
1.
This is what all the stuff looks like. Splig added for scale.
2.
The wooden box contains all cards. Heroes lay on top. They are all sleeved. I bought some great quality postcard sleeves in China. They are 106x105 mm, need a cut on the shorter side and then fit perfectly. They cost $1.30/25 pcs HERE, shipping was free to Poland.
3.
Below hero sheets are all the hero/overlord cards, all labeled and separated. Also cards for co-op expansions and familiar tokens, which are successively replaced by minis. I'll show them some day.
4.
Sturdy black file for all the booklets.
5. & 6.
The ring binder contains all the map tiles. Later in this post I'll show how to make pages.
7.
Black boxes are for monsters (bigger ones; cardboard diy for life)
8.
Plastic boxes contain monsters (more cardboard madness)
9.
...and other game components. Note, that the plastic inserts are removable, so we can keep them on the table to easy access tokens, doors, map end caps etc.
While playing we give a binder with map tiles to one player, put boxes with monsters on the floor next to another player (monsters are of course grouped in the boxes), overlord (if there is one) manages the cards and the last player (if there is one) manages tokens, doors, end caps and connectors. It worked great so far, especially with RtL, when you don't finish the setup just once but have to be able to access and add game material almost everytime.
Now to the map tiles storage.
The purpose is to make a map tiles storage that is as accessible as possible. Making it a binder with tiles held in numbered sleeves put in order made the setup time for our games a fraction of what it was when everything was held in the box or bags. Also I took an effort to make it as compact as possible, so I tried to fit as many tiles as possible on as little sheets as possible.
1.
You will need:
- soldering tool
- sharp knife
- metal ruler
- standard document binder sleeves
- few paper sheets
- thin permanent marker
- a surface that you can work on using sharp and very hot tools.
- clear adhesive tape (optional)
2.
Insert 2 or 3 paper sheets into the sleeve and put the map tiles you wish to fit into the sleeve on top of it. Make sure that every tile has at least 5-6 milimeters of space from every side. Put a mark between the tiles (every tile should have about 10 mm of safe space from it). This is where we will use the soldering tool to make a socket.
3.
Take away the tiles. Measure the same space from the top of the sleeve and make another mark. Put a metal ruler about 5-7 milimeters below the marks. This is where you cut the opening for the lower socket.
Cut using exacto knife or any other sharp tool. Use little force, so you cut only through one layer of plastic.
4.
Remove the paper from the sleeve. Move the ruler on your marks.
This is where somehow tricky part starts, but the good side is, that even when you screw something, you won't waste any materials unless you do some random stuff.
Following the ruler set on the marks you've made, weld both layers of the sleeve. Don't go from edge to edge of the sleeve, because you may cut the sleeve in half (the line between the marks I made works good). Don't push too hard. Do it at a steady pace. If you'll go too fast, you probably won't weld the foils. If you'll go too slow, you may burn through them. If this happens, just reinforce the back of the sleeve with clear adhesive tape.
5.
The effect should look like this. All you have to do is put big numbers on it.
6.
You can put more tiles in every sleeve. Just remember to leave the margins from the vertical lines as well so each of the tiles will fit and don't go with the soldering tool up to the edges.
IMPORTANT NOTE.
This method can be used to make custom sleeves for almost any non-standard game material you may have. All you need to do is use crystal clear binder sleeves, make very precise measurments (using erasable marker, so your sleeved cards or whatever won't be marked) and use soldering tool the way that you will actually burn through both foil layers (better to do it in few passes than in one held too long).
That's it for today, hope you find it useful.
Next time I'll try to focus on proxies for familiars, or who knows what.