by super_bruno
Hello! I've read a lot about the techniques used by members here on the geek to paint their miniatures. I would like to share the method I use which is a bit different.Techniques used here usually involve basing, washing then drybrushing, or complex techniques like blending. Or simple things like dipping. I've tried all those techniques, except for dipping, and found that they were hard to use and didn't give me great results. Washing was especially horrible for me. And Drybrushing tend to be really difficult to control.
The technique I use is the same as Kevin Dallimore explains in his book: Foundry Miniatures Painting and Modelling Guide. It is a simple technique of layering where you create shade by covering a smaller area with a brighter paint for each layer.
First, you'll need some material:
Brushes: I use synthetic brushes. The tip of the brush is really important. It's what allows you to do small details. But don't make the mistake of painting with a really small brush. It will take you much more time to paint the same surface with it and the result are usually less good. So your main brush should be around size 1. Get some smaller brushes for finer details and awkward places to paint. And buy some really cheap brushes for mixing paint, drybrushing, varnish and the like.
Wet Palette: I use a wet palette and it is really great. I used to paint from the pot but that is not a good idea. The wet palette will allow you to dilute your paint to the right consistency quite easily. And it's great to mix your paint. When you paint you should always dilute your paint to a consitency similar to milk.
Paint: I once used Citadels paint but wasn't satisfied with it. I switched to P3 and they are much easier to use. And they cover better.
Gesso: Miracle stuff to prime your models. It's a black stuff that is used to prime canvas for acrylic painting. The most amazing property of Gesso is that it will shrink when it dries. So you can apply generously on the model and not worry too much about loosing details. Drawback is that it is black, so if you plan on painting in mostly bright colours. Like red, yellow, flesh, white... use something else. When I use pale colors, my primer of choice is Reaper White Primer.
Learn to mix your colours: When I began painting, I assumed that to get lighter colours, you had to add white, and if you wanted darker colours, you had to add black. That doesn't always give good results. Except for gray. There are better ways to do it. If you want to darken red, add a tiny bit of green or blue. For Yellow, use orange or brown, etc.
Now for the techniques I use, it's basically 3 colour layers. If you want to follow along, open another window with my finished ettin model:
http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1670477/descent-journeys-...
1- Remove mold line from the model with a hobby knife, then wash it in water and soap. And dry it.
2- Stick your miniature on a old paint pot with blue putty.
2- Prime with Gesso (or white primer) and let it dry (Maybe 30 minutes)
3- Select your colors. For each color you will need 3 different shades. For example, if I want to paint flesh, I will need the following colors: P3 Khardic Flesh, P3 Midlund Flesh and another lighter shade that I will mix myself. Using a little bit of white.
4- Base Coating: Using the darkest shade of each color you will use for your model, do a base coat. So for example every bit of flesh will be covered with P3 Khardic Flesh. You will probably need to do 3 layers over the black primer for Khardic Flesh. For my base coat, I used Khardic Flesh, for the flesh, Radiant Platinum mixed with a bit of black for the metal bits, Battlefield brown for the weapon and fur, Rucksack tan with some brown for the loincloth and horns. and armband, and Rucksack tan for the skulls. Also so Khardic flesh mixed with a bit of red for the mouth.
5- Shading: Once your model is completely base coated, you will add some shading. Selecting the middle color. In this case, P3 Midlund Flesh. Now cover almost all of the previous color with this lighter shade. Keeping only the darkest colour in some places where you want shade. On the picture you can easily see where I kept the darkest color. Around the biceps, the belly, the spine, the knees, between fingers, etc. Note: For the fur, I did some drybrushing. It gives good results for fur and hair. Or when there is a lot of details, like the Zombies clothing.
6- Highlighting: Using the brightest color, you now do the final highlighting, by painting the raised parts of the model. So I did this on the top of the knees, the top part of the belly, on the finger joints, the tip of the nose, chin and ears, etc.
7- Final details: I now paint the small details, really carefully, so I do not mess the paint job I just did. The teeths, the rope around his waist, and the nails. (By the way, eyes should be the first thing you paint, it's much easier than to try to paint your eyes and the end and mess up your hard work.
8- Finish: Use a matte finish to protect your miniature. P3 paint is also quite hard once dry, so there's not much to worry about.
Hope it will be helpful for some of you.